都柏林的後花園:威克洛山脈國家公園(中)|Dublin’s Backyard: Wicklow Mountains National Park – pt.2

繼續雙語閱讀|Read in Mandarin & English

還記得我先前說住宿偏貴,所以早餐都要起來吃到爆嗎?(說吃到爆真的是誇張了,畢竟國外的旅館都提供西式早餐,太太比較喜歡清粥小菜和蛋餅)總之,這幾天住在格倫達洛旅館,我們都有認真早起吃早餐。

Remember I said our breakfast plan was to eat like a King? Well not really like a King, western hotels only offer western food so they don’t really have what I prefer for breakie, say rice porridge with various pickled veges or Taiwanese omelet. Anyways we still tried our best to wake up every morning for this very important meal of the day.


吐司、迷你可頌和各式果醬、水果總匯、咖啡。 Toast, mini croissant and various kinds of jams, fresh fruits and coffee.

很典型的愛爾蘭式早餐,香腸和炒蛋。 Classic traditional Irish breakfast, scrambled eggs and sausages.

巧克力米麥片,牛奶和果汁。Breakfast cereal, milk and orange juice.

這間旅館的歷史很悠久了,看得出來他們的經營模式不是那種精品旅館的路線,但是這附近規格最好的旅館也就這一間,當初在找住宿的時候,發現這附近很多 Airbnb,感覺就是滿有經驗的登山客,或是三五好友會選擇的住宿方案。格倫達洛旅館的早餐其實說起來蠻陽春的,熱食就是非常傳統的炒蛋、太陽蛋、香腸、燉豆子和培根,麵包類就是兩種吐司、迷你可頌、巧克力可頌以及各式果醬,他們還有很多口味的迷你包裝早餐麥片、洗切好的綜合水果、三種果汁,這裡的咖啡是桌邊服務的,服務生會主動過來詢問你要不要加咖啡。

The hotel has been here for more than a century. you can tell that they are not those design hotels but more like a family own business. However it is one of the best, or perhaps the only one, hotels around here. When I was searching for hotels in this area, I noticed a lot of offers are Airbnb, it seems that renting a place and spending a few days in the Park is quite popular among small group travelers and hikers. Breakfast here was just mediocre. You have traditional Irish components such as scrambled eggs, sunny side up, stewed beans, sausages and bacon. They offer you two kinds of bread for toast, mini croissants, pains au chocolat and sorts of jams. They do have a wide variety of breakfast cereal in mini package, fresh fruits and fresh juices. As for coffee, the waiters here walked around and asked very politely if you’d need some more quite often.

說是早起,其實我們也差不多九點半才到餐廳,早餐時間是七點到十點,但是我發現他們九點四十幾就開始收東西,有的人快十點到幾乎什麼吃的都沒有了。不知道為什麼,以前的我會覺得那是晚到的人自己的問題,但是活到這個歲數,愈來愈覺得自己的權益很重要,既然你說早餐是七點到十點,那供餐的內容和品質就應該一致,大家同樣都付了早餐的錢,就應該享有同等的服務。總之,這個早餐可以填飽肚子,但是完全不特別。

We did wake up but not exactly early. We always arrived at the restaurant in the hotel around 9:30 in the morning. I did notice that they began to clear away food and stuff around 9:45. Some people arrived at almost ten and were left with few options. I’m not sure why but when I was younger, when I saw this I might think that people should come earlier and that’s their problem. However now I have a different view. If you tell people that breakfast hours are from 7 to 10 in the morning, then it doesn’t matter when does a costumer come in between the hours. People come in 9:30 pay the same price as those come in at 7 thus should just enjoy the same quality of service and food, simple as that. Anyways, the hotel’s breakfast was okay but nothing special about it.

早餐吃飽後,我們就開始研究今天要走的路線啦。

After breakfast, we went back to our room and discuss our plan today.


重點地標 Major landmarks

從上面這張圖可以看出整個國家公園的大致面貌,右上角是遊客中心,旁邊的 H 就是我們待的旅館,走路不到五分鐘就可以抵達修道院、教堂遺址、墓園和圓塔,南方就是黑窟窿山脈,從遊客中心的位置出發,靠湖南測往西走,會先遇到下湖,接著是停車場,接近上湖這邊就是各種路線的起點(有些路線部分有重疊),從這裡你可以選擇橘線、紅線、藍線和白線,如果你往北走,可以抵達教育中心(淡季不開放),然後接上紫線或銀線。這裡我稍微放大了重點地標,中間粉紅色框框圈出的是粉線和粽線。

From this map you can see the rough outline of the Park, at the top right corner you have the visitor center and the H mark next to it was our hotel. From our hotel it is just a 5 minutes walk to the Round tower and church ruins. Lower part of the map is the Derrybawn Mountains range. If you keep walking towards the west along the south side of the lakes, you first reach Lower Lake, a public parking lot and then the Upper Lake. When you almost reach the Upper Lake, you’d end up at a crossroad and this is the beginning of many trails, including the orange route, red route, brown route, blue route and white route. If you continue to North from here, you’d eventually reach the education center which only opens at peak seasons. Starting from the education center, you have the purple route and the silver route. Here I enlarged the small box on the map which highlights pink and brown route.



這兩條路線都比較陡,但是長度偏短。兩條路線都會先沿著波拉納斯瀑布往上爬,然後一個岔路之後,棕線往聖凱文的小屋,粉線會抵達瀑布的最上游。

These two routes are short but steep. Both of them start with following the Poulanass Waterfall. The route forks at some point and the brown one leads you to St. Kevin’s Hut while the pink one takes you to cross above the waterfall.



看完整的地圖的話,會發現紅線繞很大一圈,白線也是蠻猛的,然後地圖裡面有一個黃色點點標示的路線,範圍甚至延伸超出地圖,那就是著名的威克洛步道,威克洛步道的終點兩端分別為都柏林的瑪爾雷公園(Marlay Park) 和卡洛郡(County Carlow)的小鎮克朗格爾(Clonegal )。 這條步道總長127公里,路線中最高海拔到3200公尺,徒步健行完全程需要至少七天的時間。

If you take a look at the complete map of the Park, you can see that red route is quite long and so is the white route. And if you look closely, you can see yellow dots that extend even out side of the map, that is the famous Wicklow Way which starts in Marlay Park in Dublin, through County Wicklow and ends in the village of Clonegal in County Carlow. Wicklow Way is 127 km long and it accents to almost 3,200 meters above the sea. If you trek the whole trail by foot it would take at least 7 days.


我們決定今天來走走看橘線,從旅館出發,沿著下湖南側,走到上湖後往南走。

As for us, we decided to try Orange route today. Heading out from our hotel we first followed the south side of the Lower Lake and once we reached the Upper Lake, we continued South.



竟然拍到彩虹~ I think I captured rainbows!


一路上都很綠!今天的天氣特別好。

It was so wonderfully green! The weather was spectacular, too.


Super map reader 先生超會看地圖~

走到上湖附近會出現一個分叉,這時候如果往右走(向北),就是往上湖的方向走。我們今天的目標是橘線,所以就沿著左邊的道路繼續前進。

This is the fork I was talking about when you almost reach Upper Lake, if you take a right turn here, heading North, you are going to the Upper Lake. Our orange route had us take the passage on the left.



這條路只有我們,先生表示很害怕哈哈哈,很愛演!

The passage seemed long and never ending and we were the only hikers around, my husband was fearful for the journey ahead. Much acting my love.


美麗的樹 A remarkable tree!


這段路和粉線重疊了十分鐘吧,接著到一個岔路,看得到粉線在這裡叉開往左,我們沿著右邊的路線,開始往上健走。

This part of the route was both pink and orange, at some point you’d meet a split and this is when you choose to go with the right one to continue with the orange route.



雖然這條路線一直往上攀升,但是坡度很緩,所以走起來沒什麼負擔。

Though after the split the route got more and more steep, it is not too drastic. It was actually a very pleasant walk.



還沒走到至高點就已經可以看到上湖的身影了。

You can already spot the Upper Lake before reaching the highest point.



走到這裡已經有50分鐘了吧。我們找到一個視野很好的地方坐下來吃零食。

When we reached this spot, we had been walking for at least 50 minutes. We took a break at this wonderful position and had our snacks of the day.


吃著餅乾的先生 Cooking eating husband



走到這邊的風景很廣闊,雖然這裡不是至高點,但是視野最好,至高點眼前都是樹,並沒有看得比較清楚。

The view here is very open and nice, even though it is not the highest yet. I think this patch is the vantage point of the route which gives you the best view looking over the entire Upper Lake. You thought the higher you go the better you see however the view was majorly blocked by tall trees at the highest point.



經過至高點後就開始下坡了,路徑也變得比較狹窄。接下來的路線就是穿梭在林地和矮草原之間。

After reaching the highest point, we began to decent, the route also gets narrower. The rest of the route is in between trees and grassland.



橘線大部分都是這種已經鋪好的水泥路,所以地面很平坦,比較沒有在山林穿梭的感覺,我覺得蠻可惜的。走到這裡開始樹木變得比較稀疏,也是在這裡我們兩個探討了遇到殺人魔、熊該怎麼辦。

Most part of the Orange route is paved with concrete so the ground is flat. However it does take away the charm of walking in the nature which is indeed a shame. The landscape changes from here as well, trees are more sparse and you see more vast land. It is around the time we reached this area that we began to talk about what should we do if we encountered series killer or bears here.

太太:在這裡如果遇到熊怎麼辦?

先生:這裡有熊嗎?

太太:沒有,假設嘛!

先生:我覺得我要當誘餌,然後你逃跑去求救。

太太:那你怎麼辦?我也可以一起當誘餌啊,這樣熊就會猶豫不決。

先生:不管,你就是逃跑就對了。

Me: What if we ran into bears here?

Bee: There are bears here?

Me: No. Hypothetically speaking.

Bee: Well, I think I would be a decoy so you could escape and looked for help.

Me: What about you? I could also be a decoy so the bear would be so confused.

Bee: Nope, you should just run.


太太:如果遇到殺人魔,我覺得就是真心衰。

先生:怎麼說?

太太:我們走那麼久都沒遇到半個人,會在這裡找獵物的殺人魔肯定就是有事先計畫,這個地點不是選假的。

先生:也是,真心衰。

太太:如果我們現在看到有人被殺人魔追,我們一定要去幫忙。

先生:為什麼?

太太:因為團結力量大,如果我們不幫他,他就死定了,你也希望自己被殺的時候有人來幫忙吧?

先生:太太說得是。

Me: I think if you met a serial killer here it is simply unfortunate.

Bee: How’s that?

Me: We’ve been walking for quite some time now and we haven’t seen anyone yet. If someone chose to kill here it’s

definitely well planned. You don’t pick this killing ground for no reason.

Bee: I think you are right. Very unfortunate.

Me: If we saw someone being chased by a killer we had to help him.

Bee: Why?

Me: That’s how we outnumbered the killer ah. If we didn’t help him he would be dead dead. You’d like to have some help if you were the victim, right?

Bee: You are always right.


瞎聊的同時,我們也離河谷地區愈來愈近了,河谷南側的樹木都很翠綠,而且身上長滿了地衣苔蘚。

As these random topics continue, we were also reaching the valley. The south side of the lakes are so verdant and lush, and most of the trees are covered in lichens, algae and moss.



我覺得這裡的植物和樹木很美,雖然種類不多,但是走進林區的時候,真的有種被大自然團團包圍的感覺。

I love the forest here. Though you don’t see a wide variety of trees but it is compensated by the abundance of the fresh and green. When walking in the forest you feel truly surrounded by mother nature.



腳底下的景色也很可愛。

Lots of cute things to see at your footstep, too.



我很先生說他的任務就是幫我注意菇類,我很喜歡拍菇類,很喜歡它們的模樣和色彩。

I told my husband that his task today was to pay attention to mushrooms. I love taking pictures of mushrooms, I love their looks and colors.


被苔蘚覆蓋到體無完膚~ Completely covered


走到這裡的時候,先生大喊:我找到你的菇類了,我一時沒注意到這棵樹,視線還在地上尋覓菇類的蹤跡,抬頭便被眼前的景象嚇到了。

When we walked passed by this tree my husband exclaimed that he found my mushrooms. I didn’t know it was the tree he’s talking about so I was still looking down on the ground. Upon looking up at the tree I was taken a back by the view.



滿滿的蕈類啊~不只數量多,體積也很龐大,看久了有點恐怖!

All the mushroom! They are great not only in number but also in size. It got a bit creepy if you stare at them for too long.



今天的天氣十分晴朗,天空很藍而且還有微風,我記得那時候我和我姐傳訊息,法國那時候正在經歷毒辣的熱浪,她看著我錄製的微風徐徐短片,很羨慕的樣子(是嗎?姐?)

The weather was just too good that day. The sky was blue and there were breezes. I remember texting my sister and I sent her a video of trees moving with the wind. France was having a terrible heat wave at the time so I think she was very envious of me. (Am I right?)



走走停停、健行了將近四小時後,我們終於走完橘線,繞回圓塔。

We took our time walking and taking breaks, after 4 hours we finally made it back to the Round Tower and finished with the orange route.



這時候肚子也小餓了,我們買了熱狗、漢堡和起司薯條。

We were peckish so we went to get some hot-dog, hamburger and cheesy fries.


先 生最愛曬太陽 Husband enjoyed his favorite Sun.


吃飽喝足後我們就會到旅館休息,繼續曬太陽,今天的健行也告一段落。我們真的不是來爬山的,我們是來休息的。

We had our afternoon snack and went back to our room to take a nap. We laid in bed and basked ourselves in the lovely sunshine. Our hiking of the day ended here. You can see that we were not really here for all the hiking, we were here to just relax.




睡了一覺之後,我們趁天還沒完全黑,到河邊走走。

After a small nap, we headed out to the river before the sun went down.



這附近環境真的很優美,完全沒有城市的喧囂吵雜,在溪流邊,你聽見的是河水潺潺、鳥鳴,感受到的是一種與世無爭的靜 ,這裡的時間好像真的走得比都柏林慢多了。 再加上我們兩個完全沒野心的行程,想走就走,想停就停,也不要求一定要蒐集幾條路線,讓我們的身心靈有機會完全地放鬆。雖然這裡的景色不是那種令人驚豔的美,但是它讓你感覺親近、恣意,是種讓人難以忘懷的舒服。

這天晚上我們還吃了好吃的韓式辣泡麵,好幸福。

This was the magical hour to me. The surrounding was really peaceful and quite, unlike the hustling and bustling in the city. Standing by the river, all you heard was water running through cracks and birds singing. You felt so relaxed and disconnected from all the worries and that nothing really mattered at this moment. Even the time here seemed to pass by a bit slower. Our trip was very under-planned, we left as we wished and we stopped when we wanted. We didn’t force ourselves to “collect" routes just for the sake of it. To have a total relaxed holiday was always the goal and that really loosened us up greatly. Here, you don’t see overwhelmingly amazing scenery but the nature is so approachable, gracious and gentle and that is going to be unforgettable.

This evening we had tasty, spicy Korean instant noddles. Life, what else?


如果你喜歡這篇文章,也請你動動手按讚或是分享,你的鼓勵就是太太最大的動力。
If you like this article, please like it or share it. Your support keeps me going!


閱讀其他文章|Read other posts! 


✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨
我創作的貼圖 – My LINE Stickers

太太和她的日常生活
(Taitai and Her Daily Life)
https://line.me/S/sticker/4399890

討人厭的喬(The Annoying Joe)
https://line.me/S/sticker/4410677

章魚小番茄(Tomatopus)
https://line.me/S/sticker/4292927

鮑伯和蔓蒂(Bob & Mandy) 
https://line.me/S/sticker/4302033
✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨

2則留言 追加

  1. Yu-Ju Lin 說道:

    不羨慕,是嫉妒。

    Liked by 1 person

發表迴響

在下方填入你的資料或按右方圖示以社群網站登入:

WordPress.com 標誌

您的留言將使用 WordPress.com 帳號。 登出 /  變更 )

Google photo

您的留言將使用 Google 帳號。 登出 /  變更 )

Twitter picture

您的留言將使用 Twitter 帳號。 登出 /  變更 )

Facebook照片

您的留言將使用 Facebook 帳號。 登出 /  變更 )

連結到 %s