都柏林的後花園:威克洛山脈國家公園(下)|Dublin’s Backyard: Wicklow Mountains National Park – pt.3

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昨天橘線走了一大圈後,我和先生覺得今天可挑戰一個比較遠的路線,看了看地圖,我們決定從綠線的北側開始走,接上紫線,拜訪礦工村落。紫線是屬於平坦的健行步道,所以完全沒有難度,很適合肉腳隊。

We walked the entire Orange route yesterday with ease so today we felt like challenging something longer. We studied the map and decided to start from the north side of green route and connect to purple route to visit the miner’s village. Purple route is long but flat and categorized as easy. It has 0 difficulty therefore is very ideal for the lazy pair.



今天也爬起來吃早餐,吃了早餐麥片、果醬吐司和水果優格。

Of course we got up for breakfast. We had breakfast cereals, toast and jam and some fruity yogurt.



從旅館出發,接著綠線北側,是一系列的木棧道,今天的天氣比昨天更好,更熱、太陽更大。

Heading out from our hotel and following the north side of the Green route, we soon began to walk on the boardwalk featuring at this part of the route. The weather was better than yesterday, warmer and sunnier.



走不到20分鐘先生就開始脫衣服了,那待會怎麼辦?

We had only begun to walk for about 20 minutes and he’s already stripping off?



綠線北側的風景和南側截然不同,雖然都是圍繞著下湖,南側路線的兩邊都是樹木,所以視野是屬於狹長、被自然團團包圍的感覺,北側的木棧道沿著緩增的地勢而建,可以看到中間的草原和遠方的山脈,還可以更清楚地綜觀下湖風貌。

The view of the north side of the Green route is totally different from that of the south. Though two sides both thread along the Lower Lake, south side’s route is surrounded by trees. You sort of have a tunnel vision when walking in it and feel embraced by nature. The boardwalk on the north side leads you to an open view which you can see the grassland in the valley and the mountains in the distance. You’d also have a better view of the Lower Lake.



走到這邊已經接近下湖了,很多綿羊在附近吃草,但也因為太陽太大,牠們全都在樹蔭底下避暑。接著穿過一小段樹林,我們就抵達上湖的東側邊緣。如果你不想繼續往西走,你可以在這裡繞回綠線的南側,走回遊客中心,完成一整圈的翠綠道(綠線)。

We were reaching the Lower Lake here and you could spot sheep munching on the grass. Because the sun was so strong most of them stayed in the shades of trees. After that you’d go through a small patch of woodland and reach the southern edge of the Upper Lake. If you don’t want to continue west, you can stop here and go about the lake, heading back to the visitor center by the south side of the green route. This way you complete the entire Green route.



這附近開始的林相開始變化,不知道是不是地勢其實默默地在攀升,抵達上湖後,你會開始看見高聳的針葉林。

Starting from here the landscape begin to change from lower trees and grassland to tall, pine trees. Though we can’t really feel the drastic change, I think the elevation is constantly climbing as we walked towards the west.



從這裡開始就是漫長的沿湖道,整條路線沿著上湖的北側,一路延伸到底。

The purple route begins around here, it continues along the lake all the way to the end.



走在這條路上,會覺得自己特別渺小,這段路走起來非常舒服,陽光穿透過樹林,柔軟地、不多不少地灑在身上,還有微風徐徐,在這裡也會看到很多狗主人,帶狗狗來這裡散步奔跑。

I felt small when walking on this route, the trees were just so tall. It is very pleasant to have a stroll here, too. Sunshine, scattering through the tree leaves, gently sprinkled on you while breezes slightly brushed against your face, it felt so nice. A lot of people brought their pets here to have a run as well.



走了將近50分鐘,終於抵達上湖西側的邊緣,還碰見一隻超可愛的黃金在湖邊玩水~我的狗呢?我的法鬥在哪?我的澳洲牧牛犬在哪?(哭,我也好想養狗喔!)

We walked for about 50 minutes and finally reached the end of the Upper Lake, here we saw a golden retriever playing at the shore with its owners. I am so jealous! Where is my dog? My french bull? My blue heeler? (I really want to keep a dog.)



經過上湖末端的濕地後,迎接我們的是一大片開闊、完全沒有林蔭的道路。

After passing the wetland at the edge of the Upper Lake, you begin to walk on a trail with open views and without any trees or shades overhead.




接近礦工村落時,我們右手邊的山坡上開始出現大小不一的岩石,數量開始漸增,看來是以前挖礦時所留下的遺跡。

As we reaching the miner’s village, the side of the hills began to get rocky and full of debris. The number and amount grew bigger as we got closer, it seemed to be what was left here during the mining time.



挖礦所遺留下來的廢石堆非常龐大,走在這一大片礫石的旁邊其實有點恐怖,覺得好像隨時會被落石砸到。

The spoil heaps left from the mining industry were massive. It was actually a bit intimidating walking along the debris. It felt like the rocks could fall down any minute.



走到這裡就是抵達礦工的村落了,附近看得到溪流、一些建築遺跡。

Here is the miner’s village. You can see a string running through this area and some ruins.



我們發現溪流附近到處都是美麗的石頭!

We discovered that the river is filled with beautiful rocks!



從這些五顏六色的礫石就可以看出來,這邊的礦物種類滿多的。威克洛山脈這一帶的礦業在過去頗興盛,阿沃卡(Avoka)地區曾有銅脈,格蘭達洛這邊則有鋁脈。

Judging by the colors and texture, it tells us how rich the mineral here is. The Wicklow Mountains have a rich mining history. Copper was mined in Avoca, and lead was mined in Glendalough.


這一帶之所以有豐富的礦資源,得從四千兩百萬年前說起,威克洛山脈的形成就是因為兩個巨大的板塊碰撞、相互擠壓、向上推擠。地表下的大量岩漿也被向上推擠,但是岩漿並沒有噴出地面,而是在地底逐漸冷卻、凝固,形成了花崗岩。岩漿在冷卻的過程中,和附近的岩石(圍岩)相熔,產生可能的物理、化學變化(像是蝕變、 熔結或是冷凝後產生的結晶等等) ,進而生成種類不同的礦物,就威克洛這裡的天然條件,最後得到的就是鉛、鋅、銀礦等等。

If we are going to understand why this area is abundant in minerals, we have to talk a bit about history and geography. 420 million years ago, two tectonic plates collided. The area that is now Co. Wicklow, buckled and twisted, and a large batholith of molten magma was squeezed up. The magma did not break the surface, but cooled slowly underground, to form granite. At the edge of the magma, where it met the overlying rocks, minerals formed – lead, zinc, silver and others.



但是礦石的故事到這裡還沒結束,經過四千兩百萬年的風吹雨打、各種物理侵蝕,原本藏在地表下的花崗岩裸露出來,形成了現在威克洛山脈。而花崗岩和雲母片岩交疊的地方,就是挖礦公司的目標啦~19世紀開始,商人發現這一代的礦物資源,開始進駐威克洛山區,開挖有價值的礦物。礦業的鼎盛時期就是在19世紀初到西元1963年之間。

However the story did not end here, over the following 420 million years, the overlying rocks were eroded, exposing the granite that now forms much of the Wicklow Mountains. Where the granite meets the mica-schist, the minerals became the target for a mining industry that operated between 1800 and 1963.



最早在1798年,一位叫做湯瑪士維福的工程師,在這附近建造軍事用路時,發現格倫達山河谷的上游山脈有鉛礦。 接著1809年開始,挖礦公司開始開挖他們發現的第一條礦脈,但是這條名為陸加諾爾( Luganure )的礦脈挖到1820年左右,挖礦公司覺得獲利不夠高,就停止挖礦、關閉礦場。

In 1798, Thomas Weaver, an engineer working on the development of the Military Road, discovered lead in the hills above Glendasan Valley. By 1809 mining had begun and the first vein to be exploited was Luganure. By 1820, the mine had ceased to be profitable, and it was closed and sold.



多年以後,愛爾蘭挖礦公司( Mining Company of Ireland, M.C.I.)於1824年,買下陸加諾爾 礦脈,重新開挖了66年,這段時間的獲利起起伏伏,但是大抵來說這個礦脈是有讓他們賺到錢的,他們在這裡總共挖到了5萬噸鉛、2.5萬盎司的銀,是愛爾蘭當時最重要的鉛脈。大多數的挖礦工程圍繞在格倫達山河谷的上方,總共有八條礦道。

A few years later, in 1824, the Mining Company of Ireland (M.C.I.), purchased the Luganure Mine and worked it for the next 66 years. During this period profits fluctuated, but as a whole, the mines prospered, extracting 50,000 tonnes of lead and 25,000 ounces of silver, making it the most important lead mine in Ireland at the time. Most of the exploitation took place above the Glendasan Valley where eight tunnels were worked.



接下來的幾年,尤其是60年代左右,挖礦公司努力開發、派遣專家尋找新的礦脈,但是都無功而返。這條在格倫達山河谷上游的礦脈也被挖到枯竭,1963年愛爾蘭挖礦公司正式宣布停止這一區的礦業,歷時163年的挖礦歲月也就此畫下句點。

During the following years several attempts were made to discover new veins, particularly in the 1960s, but nothing of note was discovered. Mining the Luganure mines became no longer viable. In 1963 the Mining Company met for the last time, ending 163 years of mining in the area.



自此之後河谷一帶的礦業走入歷史,被時間遺留在背後的,就是這些破碎的石屋和礫石,走到這裡,也只能夠想像,曾經有那麼一群人, 在這裡辛勤勞動、養家糊口。挖礦其實是危險性很高、環境不友善的職業,早期礦工的平均壽命只有42歲,肺部相關的疾病和鉛中毒是當時主要的死因,再加上礦脈本身就有許多結構上的問題,礦道坍方也是職業的風險之一。1825年,有兩名礦工在一個橫坑工作時,橫坑坍塌,他們兩個在地下被埋了33個小時,消息傳出後,另外一區的挖礦隊伍前來援救,成功將兩位礦工救出來。雖然類似的意外在所難免,但是在163年的挖礦史裡,文獻有紀載的礦道意外死亡只有三起,還是肺病和鉛中毒比較可怕。

Mining in the valley thus became history and was left in the past. These wreckage and ruins are the only things still stand here. Looking at these gravels and stones, it makes you wander how it might be for those miners to work so diligently here day and night just to bring food to the table. Mining is a high risk occupation, the working environment isn’t friendly nor always safe. A miner’s average life expectancy was 42 years. Lung diseases and lead poisoning were the main causes of death.  Due to the fissured nature of the rock, the risk of collapse was always present. In 1825 two miners were trapped for 33 hours after an adit in which they were working collapsed. On hearing the news, a team from other mines came to assist the trapped men. In its 163 year history only three fatalities were recorded as a result of accidents. Lung diseases and lead poisoning were much more of a threat to these miners life expectancy.



現在這個河谷上游只剩下狂風呼嘯的聲音,再次拜訪的也非故人,而是我們這些只能想像過往的過客。

The only sound you hear when standing in the valley is the wind gushing through the cracks of the ruins. Those who were here are no longer in sight, and those are still here, are passengers like us who can only imagine what once was.


逛了逛礦工村落遺跡,我們轉身走回來時的路。

After walking around the miner’s village, we began to turn back to where we came from.




這一回頭,身後的礦工村落,也會成為另外一種回憶。

As we turned around, this village behind us will also become a part of our memory.



走了一整天的我們,肚子超級餓,泡麵也已經吃光光了,所以我們在威克洛國家公園的最後一餐,是在當地一家酒吧解決的。

After a whole day’s walking, we were starving. We had finished our instant noddles therefore we went to a local pub for dinner this evening. This was also our last evening here in the Park.



先生點了好吃的肋排,你看他多開心。

Someone ordered ribs and looked very excited!



我則點了某種鮮蝦尖管麵,以美味的一餐為美好的一天做結。

I ordered penne with prawns and some kind of sauce. We ended this day with a lovely dinner.


我個人覺得威克洛國家公園很適合一家大小,也很適合情侶和一群好朋友,9大路線的難度從初階,到要有登山經驗的都有,滿足每個人對健走和登山的需求,如果是有計畫來這邊觀賞野生動物的人,看到紅鹿和各種鳥類的機率也很大,喜歡攝影的朋友,也可以上山下湖,在夏季拍拍翠綠的森林,在冬天拍拍滄桑的尖山。

I think the Wicklow Mountains National Park is truly a ideal vacation destination for family, couples and groups of friends. The nine trails in the Park are varied in difficulty, you always have options to go from just strolling or hard-core hiking and each trial has its own landscape and feature. If you plan to see animals in the wild, the chances are high to spot red deer and all sorts of birds. People who enjoy photography will find the Park a resourceful location, you’ve got mountains and lakes. In Summer you can capture the lush and green of the forest and in Winter you can frame a picture of the gloomy Spinc.

對我們來說這是一趟十分放鬆心情的旅程,不會太累,但後兩天的步道也都是走到會發汗的那種,威克洛山脈國家公園著實是很棒的度假地點。

It was an extremely relaxing trip to us, it didn’t exhaust us too much however still guaranteed some good exercise. I concur the Wicklow Mountain National Park is a great place to spend your holiday days.


部分資料參考自 威克洛山脈國家公園官方網站
Reference: the official website of the Wicklow Mountains National Park

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